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Post by dcheek45 on Nov 2, 2013 7:00:32 GMT -8
Yeah you are right about the car, still looking for a steady paycheck to bankroll the loose ends.
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Post by sc397 on Nov 11, 2013 19:05:27 GMT -8
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Post by dcheek45 on Nov 12, 2013 8:54:33 GMT -8
Looks like the starting stand is getting close..
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Post by sc397 on Nov 14, 2013 18:56:58 GMT -8
53. dcheek45: There is always something.. I had to shorten a couple of the rocker arm studs so that they wouldn't bottom out. Mental note: Next time we convert bridge rocker heads to stud type, make sure the tapped hole is deep enough and there is a chamfer on top. I had two sets of studs and only the ARP ones would work due to no chamfer or counterbore in the head. 8.300" seems to be the magic push rod length for most of these engines. Ended up with a really nice centered rocker arm sweep on top of the valve stem.
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Post by dcheek45 on Nov 15, 2013 6:41:49 GMT -8
Glad I've got an engine builder who pays attention to the little things
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Post by sc397 on Nov 18, 2013 20:03:41 GMT -8
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Post by dcheek45 on Nov 19, 2013 5:41:44 GMT -8
Really nice looking work Rick..
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Post by sc397 on Mar 10, 2014 19:16:46 GMT -8
53. dcheek45: Welp.. we had the oil pump plumbed backwards. Are you fkn kidding me? I asked all of the drag racers on the flow direction of this pump and they all convinced me that I was wrong... Wrong!? I was right in the first place. Oh well, nothing that Javtwotone and I can't fix.. Photos to follow. 67. MN401: Short back from the machine shop. I decided to detail the Torker intake manifold. It is a EGR manifold and I like to de-activate the EGR part by plugging off the hole in the plentum. First thing is trying to get the drive rivets out of the baffle plate. I use a chizel to loosen it up and a pair of regular old pliers to twist it out of there. Of coarse.. I busted one off. Luckily, there was enough left of it to grab a hold of. Here is the hole. I clean it up with a 7/16" drill and tap it with 1/4" NPT.
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Post by 69Rebel on Mar 13, 2014 22:42:43 GMT -8
Single stage dry sump?
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Post by sc397 on Mar 14, 2014 5:10:03 GMT -8
I would call it a single stage wet sump myself. It is just a external oil pump with external plumbing, regulator, and remote oil filter. Kinda fancysmanchy though..
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Post by sc397 on Mar 17, 2014 18:49:58 GMT -8
53. dcheek45: Mr. Cheek wanted to connect the coolant lines so we re-worked the intake a little bit. Sorry, just couldn't do the copper pipe Still looking thing. I had Stickshifter heli-arc a bung where the temp sensor used to be then, I tapped it out to 3/8' pipe to match the other 3 coolant ports. Javtwotone came over tonight and helped plumbed the rest in 1/2" stainless. I also fabbed up the FARMGUY coolant restricter plate to replace the thermostat. Oh, mounting the coil to the intake is not really a option any more...
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Post by dcheek45 on Mar 18, 2014 6:25:07 GMT -8
Nice work, lots of shine, coil mount is not a problem probably will be a fenderwell mount.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 18, 2014 18:27:05 GMT -8
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Post by dcheek45 on Mar 19, 2014 5:10:43 GMT -8
Glad you caught that, I guess that would have caused a lot of runout in the mandrel shaft, thanks pal.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 27, 2014 18:24:31 GMT -8
67. MN401:Farmguy3 got the block cleaned up and the thread all chased today so, it is time to put it together; Pioneer brass core plug kit. If coarse, they don't ive you everything that you need. They only give you 4 of the 6 1/4" pipe plugs and they don't even give you the 3/8" pipe plugs for the block coolant drain ports. The two 1 3/4" core plugs are for the late 360's with the two core plugs in the back of the block. The timing gear had the normal oil slot issue. The is would for sure have cause dizzy gear failures.
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