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Post by sc397 on Jan 29, 2015 9:11:25 GMT -8
Looks like some kind of a casting shift in the mold for 63. Wish there was a economic way to get my engine to you. I'd love to have you build my 70 390 for me? I still have to find a good crank though.. Are you getting any endorsement $ for all of the Labatt's advertising? Naa, there just seem to be a few of those scattered around my shop. It works good to give proportion to the pictures. Bring your 390 to Cleveland or one of the major meets. I can haul it to my place from there. Unless you want it pure stock find a 401 crank for it - gives better choices of transmissions as well.
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Post by 71sc360 on Jan 29, 2015 12:22:33 GMT -8
Actually I was promised a 70 crank about a year ago in a parts trade. He got all of my parts and I got no 70 390 crank, I think I did get the shaft though......
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Post by 71sc360 on Jan 29, 2015 12:27:13 GMT -8
Looks like some kind of a casting shift in the mold for 63. Wish there was a economic way to get my engine to you. I'd love to have you build my 70 390 for me? I still have to find a good crank though.. Are you getting any endorsement $ for all of the Labatt's advertising? Naa, there just seem to be a few of those scattered around my shop. It works good to give proportion to the pictures. Bring your 390 to Cleveland or one of the major meets. I can haul it to my place from there. Unless you want it pure stock find a 401 crank for it - gives better choices of transmissions as well. It's not so much that I want "pure stock" but I already have the early flywheel. I have no plans of racing it, just want a stout street motor. Using the flywheel I already have with an original crank would be a little more cost effective for me.
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Post by sc397 on Feb 22, 2015 15:00:50 GMT -8
Updates: 8. 390/401 Jeep Guy: Ready to assemble 55. MySC/360...360. Ready for me to assemble!!.... Still! 52. 401_1974_Javelin_: 401. Ready to assemble. 68. Rick's429: Needs block prep work. 63. LC390stocker: Ready to clean and assemble. - Need a parts cleaner to report to duty! 65: MC390: ’70 390 AMX. Street/show build. Disassembled. At Machine shop 66. RR290: bone stock 290 for ’66 Rogue Convert. Needs disassembled. 67. Weisco401 - Ready to clean and assemble. 65: MC390: Had to do a little welding on the block. I am guessing that whoever did a valve job on it sometime back didn't know hat he didn't have all of the head bolts out and took a pry bar to it. Or, it was a casting flaw form the get go. It did look weird in that area. Thanks Stickshifter for welding it up for us.
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Post by stickshifter on Feb 23, 2015 4:01:12 GMT -8
Yes, it's ugly. And I hope I never have to weld cast iron again. I'm pretty sure it will hold but what a PITA.
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Post by 69Rebel on Feb 23, 2015 7:09:51 GMT -8
Ya' braze-weld that?
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Post by sc397 on Feb 23, 2015 8:17:22 GMT -8
Heli-Arched it with Silicone Bronze
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Post by 69Rebel on Feb 23, 2015 18:03:43 GMT -8
Nice.
I braze-welded an exhaust manifold for a an old Ford gas-powered tractor about 20 years ago. Last I heard, it was still holding together. I probably haven't braze-welded anything in more than 10 years.
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Post by sc397 on Feb 23, 2015 18:24:31 GMT -8
My Machinist said that it warped the cylinder about .0005". He piened it some more with a hammer an brought it back in. It honed out perfectly.
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Post by tsanchez on Feb 26, 2015 7:06:44 GMT -8
I have had real good luck with silicon bronze rod, had a rare big block exhaust manifold I was trying to save and damned if I didnt try everything on it but the impurity from years of use just made it impossible just had to quit, would not stick to some sections that were overheated.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 22, 2015 18:49:10 GMT -8
This is for Stickshifter's education.. The little button in the first picture usually ends up in the bottom of the oil pan because they fall out of the hole. The replacements have a 1/8" hole on the top side where the original one does not. I wouldn't think much oil would get through there if the screen got covered. It may actually be there for a vent. I use a 1/4-20 bolt with lock tite to act as the button.
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Post by 71sc360 on Mar 23, 2015 4:46:08 GMT -8
The hole in the top was a vent used in case the plastic button failed and the pickup tried to suck itself to the bottom of the pan. The old pickups would do that but with that hole in the new style it couldn't completely suck itself to the pan.
I used to braze a 3/8 nut to the pickup right over the button hole.
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Post by 69Rebel on Mar 23, 2015 5:54:14 GMT -8
I use a roofing screw to replace the plastic button.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 23, 2015 7:46:50 GMT -8
The hole in the top was a vent used in case the plastic button failed and the pickup tried to suck itself to the bottom of the pan. The old pickups would do that but with that hole in the new style it couldn't completely suck itself to the pan. I used to braze a 3/8 nut to the pickup right over the button hole. That hole is too small to get any amount of oil through. I think it is there as a vent so when you fill the pan with oil, it will vent out the air. I used to braze nut on the bottom too but it is too much work to get all of the flux cleaned off.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 29, 2015 19:09:48 GMT -8
Updates: 59. 401_1974_Javelin_: 401. Cleaned up, core plugs and cam bearings installed. Ready to assemble 63. LC390stocker: Summit 8600 cam, R4B, Ready for the starting stand. 65: MC390: ’70 390 AMX. Street/show build. Back from the machine shop.
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