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Post by spud on Jul 28, 2023 5:00:32 GMT -8
The infrared thermal gun is a really good tool when it works well. I have found they work best when aimed at a flat black painted surface. Definitly try a reliable mechanical gauge. Your readings are steady , it kind of acts like the thermostat is working. Maybe the readings are off, maybe the thermostat is off. You will get there. Dont lose your “ cool”🤪
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Post by sc397 on Jul 30, 2023 14:03:16 GMT -8
Did you try a 7 psi radiator cap yet?
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Post by javtwotone on Jul 31, 2023 4:23:24 GMT -8
Yes, made no difference. NEJoe was disappointed as well... On Friday, I pulled it outside in the 91 degree, full sun, no breeze, and humid as a MoFo day, and let it idle with the A/C on. After 45 minutes, it was at 210 and was staying there. I throttled it up, and it went to 220. back at idle it went down to 215ish. Now needed gas, so pulled out on my country road and went 40 mph. Within a mile it was down to 210 again. I started to wonder how accurate the gauge is. I already knew the Dakota Digital dash gauge and the Edelbrock Pro-Flo computer didn't match, but which one was right? Running the carburetor, I disconnected the Edelbrock computer to be safe, so I couldn't compare them right now. Also thought, my experience has been that when a carb gets this hot, they don't like it. This thing didn't miss a beat. Hot restart, heavy throttle, all fine.
Bought a NAPA mechanical temp gauge from my local Po-dunk town. Had to have them find one, since the only ones they had on display were for tractors.. Anyway, I did a boiling water test to see what it was reading that as. Damn thing was actually very accurate for that temp. Added it to the Jeep, and now feel that the dash gauge is a minimum of 10 degrees high, and even 2-3 degrees more than that above 215.
So where does that leave me? Worse case scenario, hot outside, high speed, A/C on it's actually running 205ish. Can I expect any better than that at 2800-2900 RPM?
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Post by sc397 on Jul 31, 2023 5:53:10 GMT -8
Did you try the low pressure radiator cap with the new gauge?
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Post by javtwotone on Jul 31, 2023 6:34:58 GMT -8
Not sure what that changes, but not yet. I'm putting it back to EFI, one to make sure I didn't screw anything up with my rigged up carb swap, and two, it was rigged up.. I want to see what the Cold Air Kit does for keeping the air inlet temps down since that affects the tune. I'll swap caps on it a couple times before pulling the engine and hauling it to you.
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Post by sc397 on Jul 31, 2023 7:11:30 GMT -8
Take your time
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Post by javtwotone on Aug 3, 2023 7:47:48 GMT -8
Thanks to Mr Ketchum for the idea, and Rick for the pulley to try. One more test on this thing before pulling it apart. A smaller water pump pulley will be tried, to see if it has any effect. Once I get it switched back to EFI.
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Post by javtwotone on Aug 17, 2023 8:04:20 GMT -8
Well, a solid "maybe" it helped.. Since it is just a two groove pulley, the damn thing was shredding the Alt. belt no matter how much I tightened it. Yea, I could have run both belts to the Alternator, but I didn't want it puking power steering fluid everywhere. It did seem to have an effect on it before the belt issues, but I'm done. The engines out and at SC397's place.
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Post by javtwotone on Oct 12, 2023 5:49:06 GMT -8
Two weeks on a total knee replacement. Used the walker to go out to the barn and see all the work not getting done... hoping to not lose my mind before I can start working out there again.
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Post by sc397 on Oct 12, 2023 15:57:31 GMT -8
I tore it down today and can't find a single thing wrong. I started to educate myself on the differences in water pumps that are available. From left to right: 1. GMB water pump that I took off of the engine. The impeller is 3 5/8" in diameter and has 8 vanes. 2. Stock Cast iron. The impeller is 4 1/8" in diameter and has 8 vanes. 3. FlowKooler, High Volume. The impeller is 3 1/2" in diameter and has 8 vanes. www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1781#overview. GMB housing with a different impeller. 4. PRW PQx High Performance. The impeller is 3 3/4" in diameter and has 6 vanes. www.summitracing.com/parts/PQX-1440100#overviewIMG_7871 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Thoughts and assumptions: I have been kind of making the assumption that the bigger the diameter the impeller the more coolant it would flow with the vane design being a variable. If that is the case then the Stock Cast Iron unit should flow more than the GMB. It seems that there may be a difference between "High Volume" and High Performance". FlowKooler advertises that their unit increases flow at low speeds and the PRW rates a flow at 4000 rpm. I am really tempted to put the stock one on it but I will probably go with the FlowKooler. The FlowKooler is nothing more than an GMB with a fancy impeller which is a up charge of $93.00. Cheap if it works I guess.
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Post by spud on Oct 12, 2023 16:31:12 GMT -8
If you remove the bypass hose, you force more coolant through the radiator, and less hot coolant back into the engine. You also force the pump to create more flow and pressure to the rad. The bypass hose is a big pressure loss . Sure its part of the engIneered Cooling SYSTEM…mainly for quick warm ups… think about that. What else does it do? Creates less pressure and stress on the water pump allowing for a coolant path to pump inlet with thermostat closed. You got to consider this in water pump evaluation. Anyways another idea. If you plumb your heater hoses to a heater core in front of your rad, you get a “ bigger radiator”. I just typed up a book on evaluating water pump performance and finger fucked it into cyberspace. Short story, put a gauge tap into your intake manifold water passage. And record your pump pressure at a couple test rpms. Engine cold, test at 2000, 2500, 3000 rpm. Record results. Do same at full temp at test rpms, ( 2000, 2500, 3000) record results. You have begun quantitative evaluation processes. You can use this data against all other pumps in that vehicle. Test the existing pump in it now. Higher volumes pushing against the current thermostat and rad ( control subject system) will produce higher pressures.
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Post by spud on Oct 12, 2023 16:49:55 GMT -8
Sound like a hassle? You cant accurately evaluate a cooling system’s performance without a pressure gauge in the pressure side and a compound gauge in the suction side of the pump. Visual analysis of the water pump impeller is ok, but has limited relevance. Real performance numbers are what you need. Get some real pressure on existing pump before you swap, then get the numbers on new pump. Once you have the real pressures, you have gone where no man has gone before. Quantitative proof of a given pumps true performance
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Post by sc397 on Oct 13, 2023 3:33:42 GMT -8
Yea I won't be doing any of that but if Bruce wants to he can knock himself out. LOL!
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Post by hurst390 on Oct 13, 2023 4:07:09 GMT -8
Two weeks on a total knee replacement. Used the walker to go out to the barn and see all the work not getting done... hoping to not lose my mind before I can start working out there again. I know the feeling. Recovery is boring build a model or 2
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Post by javtwotone on Oct 15, 2023 8:00:53 GMT -8
I have so much of the Jeep apart, that I can start to spend about 20 minutes at a time doing little things to it, and I really need to anyways. From what Spud is saying, maybe this thing needs a temperature controlled shut-off valve for the bypass line. I could certainly rig up a hose with a brass shut-off valve for a test.
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