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Post by 69Rebel on Jun 8, 2018 7:17:52 GMT -8
Nice pitting in the top of the piston.
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Post by drdrunk on Jun 8, 2018 9:26:14 GMT -8
The amount of paint chips and sanding / grinding debris inside that poor motor was amazing. The bearings were all in sad shape to start with but if it had run with all that crap inside it would have been one of those "rebuilt" motors that blows up at the end of the driveway.... Add in a big helping of sketchy wrench turning and assembly "techniques" and the poor mill was doomed. Good thing is it landed at Rick's before any keys got turned...
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Post by sc397 on Jun 11, 2018 3:35:54 GMT -8
85. JW343: Tear down, inspect, fix, rebuild. Riiiight. It needs a total rebuild. I called Jim the owner yesterday and started telling him of all the bad news. Before I could get past the part where it needs all new pistons, he interupted me and said "just fix it, I want it done right". This is the 3rd or 4th engine that I have built for him.
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Post by sc397 on Jul 2, 2018 4:02:16 GMT -8
81. MM390: Warmed over 390 for a Javelin. At the Machine Shop. Along with this engine came a perfectly running 360 that we are pulling the intake and heads from to put on the 390. I thought great, this will be a nice enough short block to throw in bearings and a re-ring it. It might need a little more than a re-ring I am thinking. IMG_0009 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by 69Rebel on Jul 2, 2018 6:54:16 GMT -8
Yikes.
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Post by spud on Jul 2, 2018 8:10:27 GMT -8
Junkyard dog engine
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Post by sc397 on Jul 2, 2018 8:58:11 GMT -8
I am wondering if someone dropped a nut down its throat or something. The valve spring and retainer was still attached to the valve stem.
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Post by spud on Jul 2, 2018 9:11:48 GMT -8
Check the other intakes. Rust in the transition area from stem to valvehead. Valves are “ friction welded” in this area. “ root rot” ( rust pits) in this area weaken the bond between head and stem of valve. Intakes often get moisture and it can be fatal
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Post by sc397 on Jul 2, 2018 12:54:44 GMT -8
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Post by drdrunk on Jul 3, 2018 12:12:59 GMT -8
Well if the nut fits... So cause of death: Carb hold down nut down fell in the intake and viola.... The moral of the story is gentlemen keep a close watch on your nuts... But Rick has the technology, he can rebuild it....
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Post by sc397 on Jul 3, 2018 16:44:29 GMT -8
63. 383stroker: 4.155" bore x 3.53" stroke. SCP 1097 BL- I have use quite a few sets of these Scorpion roller rocker arms. These are a direct replacement for the bridged rocker system. IMG_0043 by Rick Jones, on Flickr To get the correct lifter pre-load (.040" +-.010" in this case) you can either shim the rocker pedestals or install the correct length push rods. Normally with these rocker arms I use a push rod that is somewhere between 8.200" to 8.300". In this case it fell right in the middle at 8.250". IMG_0044 by Rick Jones, on Flickr My Badass Oil Priming Machine. IMG_0045 by Rick Jones, on Flickr The usual. No matter how well I make my oil deflectors I end up with oil on the floor... IMG_0046 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by sc397 on Jul 7, 2018 15:22:16 GMT -8
63. 383stroker: 4.155" bore x 3.53" stroke. We are installing the Air Gap intake on this one. I always use the steel vally pan gasket and the baffle plate under the PCV valve. I cut a chunk of Scotchbrite pad to go between the PCV valve and baffle plate. IMG_0048 by Rick Jones, on Flickr She s just about ready to start!.... Except for the fact that I have to finish a 390 first. IMG_0053 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by stickshifter on Jul 8, 2018 4:24:34 GMT -8
Ya know, I still don't think installing an abrasive pad inside an engine is a good idea. Correct concept, just use something that is not abrasive.
But I could be wrong so feel free to disregard this post.
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Post by sc397 on Jul 8, 2018 5:28:37 GMT -8
If one of the fibers happens to beak loose, it will just help to clean the engine. LOL!
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Post by stickshifter on Jul 8, 2018 12:43:44 GMT -8
I will try to find you a more suitable material. You/we/the world, does not need any reason to question a quality AMC build.
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