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Post by PHAT69AMX on Jun 27, 2020 13:44:57 GMT -8
Ah the wonders of current aftermarket classic car parts...
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Post by sc397 on Jul 3, 2020 17:01:04 GMT -8
95. Curtis390: I doubt that this thing would have even started. If it would have started, it wouldn't have lived long. It would have had zero oil to the distributor gear, The aftermarket timing cover was binding the distributor and, the rings were gaped about half as much as they should have been. Got the timing gear fixed. IMG_3489 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Connecting rod nuts chamfered so they seat correctly with the rod. IMG_3495 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Replacement timing cover. Of course it is off. The distributor won't go in. IMG_3496 by Rick Jones, on Flickr I cheated by elongated the holes at the positioning dowels and now the distributor slides right in. I had the distributor in there when I tightened the timing cover bolts. When the bolts are tight the distributor still slides in and out ok so, I think that it will be fine. IMG_3498 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by sc397 on Jul 10, 2020 9:42:55 GMT -8
95. Curtis390: Now I remember again why I hate these Comp roller tip rockers. Not a big enough slot for not much more than a stock lift cam. Obviously, I forgot to check that on this one. IMG_3545 by Rick Jones, on Flickr IMG_3544 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by 69Rebel on Jul 10, 2020 10:42:55 GMT -8
Shizzle. Maybe you ran it dry?
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Post by sc397 on Jul 10, 2020 11:57:45 GMT -8
Dammitjim!! Again!?! I could have made the guy buy all new rocker arms but I feel bad for him because of all the previous hassle. I took die grinder to them and hogged them out. The slot is actually off-set to one side. Too bad it is the wrong side. The witness mark from the roller is just about dead center on the valve stem so, I know that the push rods are the right length. IMG_3549 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by sc397 on Jul 10, 2020 13:58:09 GMT -8
Sounds like I have it fixed. I just hope that the cam is not hurt. This is the 4th start up after brake-in. IMG_3554 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Jul 11, 2020 10:35:58 GMT -8
So what in the world could make someone wanna try to do it with an AMC ?... Because if ya truly know what you're doin'... ya can make anything run... Makin' an AMC do it proves if ya do or not... Question: Might shorter pushrods have shifted the travel in the existing slot in such a way to eliminate the interference?
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Post by sc397 on Jul 11, 2020 11:03:35 GMT -8
It would have helped but the roller tip witness mark on top of the valve stem was about .010" off center as it is. A shorter push rod would have made that situation worse. I really think that they have been making them with the slot off-set in the wrong direction from day one.
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Jul 11, 2020 12:34:55 GMT -8
Might you have come across not all Poly Locks being made the same way, some threaded all the way through and some are not, as shown in this drawing ?
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Post by sc397 on Jul 11, 2020 12:48:02 GMT -8
It doesn't matter if they are threaded through or not when the slot in the rocker arm bottoms out against the stud at lift. I just remembered, I broke one off in my SC/Rambler when it had the .477 lift cam in it using those rocker arms too. There is not enough travel in the slot. The slot is biased towards the push rod side. It needs to be biased towards the valve side. IMG_3568 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Jul 11, 2020 12:52:06 GMT -8
I veered off on a tangent and changed the subject to a detail unrelated to the slot length issue...
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Post by sc397 on Jul 11, 2020 12:58:40 GMT -8
Oh. Well, see how you are? LOL!
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Jul 11, 2020 13:04:05 GMT -8
Was just curious if you had seen both kinds of nuts ?... LOL that don't sound right at all ! LOL
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Post by sc397 on Jul 11, 2020 13:35:56 GMT -8
Well I try not to look at any more nuts than I have to but yes, I have seen both of those types.
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Post by sc397 on Jul 17, 2020 9:27:10 GMT -8
56. CD418Stroker: Still Waiting for heads! 62. DH360: Assembling now This one is for a Buddy and kinda fun.. A re-ring job that was done about 15 years ago and never fired. Lots-o-work for me in taking apart and cleaning though. Their assembly grease turned in to plastic and has been a bitch to clean off. Every lifter had to be taken apart and every ring taken off and cleaned. Stock original pistons and found one with a cracked skirt so, a used one of mine went back in it. A throw together engine with some care and a pair of reworked 1970 304 heads. Believe it or not, I had to do zero rework on the timing gear oil passages. Ahhh, the good old days. 95. Curtis390: DONE!96. OK401: Ready to assemble97. SC397: 360 bored and stroked to 397. 98. VL390: 1970 Javelin street car. At the Machine ShopThis is the 3rd 390 block that I have rebuilt that has funky casting at this head bolt. I believe that they all had the green paint splotch on the front of the block as well. Paint dabs are usually to flag something for a number of reasons. One of the blocks looked cracked around the thread so I had Stickshifter braze it up for me. This one is not bad enough to braze but the core is sure sifted. IMG_3605 by Rick Jones, on Flickr IMG_3603 by Rick Jones, on Flickr 99. TGrandWagon401: 1990 Grand Wagoner slated for fuel injection by javtwotone. 100. Generic360: 260H cam cast intake. At the Machine Shop.
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