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Post by javtwotone on Mar 21, 2019 5:51:15 GMT -8
It has to go on a 1966 290 for Mr. Russ Roberts for his American Convertible. He wants it dead nuts stock and I get that. Remind me to slap Russ the next time I see him...
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Post by 69Rebel on Mar 21, 2019 7:27:42 GMT -8
It would be a shame if you found a huge crack in it that you hadn't previously noticed.
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Post by sc397 on Mar 21, 2019 8:41:33 GMT -8
Yea, then we would have to find another one.
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Post by 69Rebel on Mar 21, 2019 10:38:29 GMT -8
Some people...
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Post by sc397 on Mar 21, 2019 17:50:58 GMT -8
(One of 3 made with a 2bbl and 4spd)
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Post by javtwotone on Mar 22, 2019 4:04:59 GMT -8
The 75 yr olds at the National meet will be impressed. You could always keep it on the shelf and put a real intake on it..
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Post by 67roguexcode on Mar 22, 2019 5:22:35 GMT -8
Hey wait a minute!!! You do realize SC397 just had a Birthday, right?
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Post by javtwotone on Mar 22, 2019 5:56:04 GMT -8
Oh shit you're right!! Happy 76th Rick!!
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Post by sc397 on Mar 22, 2019 6:05:19 GMT -8
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Post by javtwotone on Mar 22, 2019 9:20:29 GMT -8
Damn eyes are getting bad, is that an orange smiley face with a white bow-tie? Anyway, I have some premo front drum brake stuff from Booger if you guys need it for that restoration.
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Mar 22, 2019 15:32:57 GMT -8
May cost too much?, may no longer be available?, but used to be, even in bulk, product called Oxi-Solv by Solv-O Corporation. Rust Remover, non-toxic, and leaves a "zinc" coating that prevents immediate re-rust surface rust... Y'all heard of it?
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Post by sc397 on Mar 22, 2019 17:49:05 GMT -8
Yep. That stuff costs dollars per gallon. The citric acid cost me $24.00 to do 40 gallons. I will check in to it though.
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Post by sc397 on Jun 20, 2020 15:14:48 GMT -8
I am back at it. This is the 3rd block going in the solution. I didn't even realize what it said on the barrel when I picked this one to use. LOL! I have the system down a little better this time. Mix 10# of Citric Acid to 40 gallons of water. www.ebay.com/itm/Citric-Acid-Anhydrous-Natural-Non-GMO-10-lbs/303574748823?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649I leave the block in the Citric Acid over night. Pull it out like 12-24 hours later and scrub it down with a Scotch Brite pad and put it back in the solution over night again. Take it out 12-24 hours later, scrub it again, and rinse it down with a water hose before I put it in the Baking soda solution. Mix 15# of backing soda in 40 gallons of water. It needs stirred a lot to dissolve. www.ebay.com/itm/Arm-Hammer-Pure-Baking-Soda-15-lbs-Sealed-Free-Shipping/184330754219?hash=item2aeaf818ab:g:5ZIAAOSwMQ5e2XLI:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!49228!US!-1 I put the block in the Baking Soda solution for about a half hour. Pull it out and rinse it down with water and immediately blow it completely dry. As it is drying, it will rust again. You can actually watch it rust. Just as soon as it is dry, I spray it inside and out with Engine Fogging oil and rub it in with a rag. That cast iron is like a sponge, it soaks it right up. IMG_3433 by Rick Jones, on Flickr 20 Hours later. It is probably good enough but I wiped it down with a Scotch Brite pad and put it back in until tomorrow. IMG_3440 by Rick Jones, on Flickr 19 Hours later. Out of the Citric Acid, wiped down with the Scotch Brite pad, rinsed off and now in to the Baking Soda Solution. IMG_3442 by Rick Jones, on Flickr 1/2 Hour later. Out of the Baking Soda Solution, hosed off, blown off dry. Flash rust starting to show. IMG_3443 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Sprayed down with Engine Fogging Oil. The flash rust comes off as I wipe the block with a rag that gets saturated in the oil. IMG_3444 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by spud on Jun 22, 2020 5:05:28 GMT -8
Looks like it works pretty good. Something you can try to prevent rust is spraying the block down with sodium hydroxide degreaser. They use it in the pressure washer at work, its alkaline, if you spray it direct on the wet iron it wont rust when it dries and is a pretty fair antirust agent afterwards. When i fire up the hot water pressure washer to clean engine parts i have the strong soapy solution in a spray bottle and when im done washing it spray the parts down right quick before they start to flash rust. I just leave it on there. That “simple green” is similar stuff. We get this stuff at work thats industrial strength. It is strong enough it will strip paint and rust off of a block. Takes about a week or two to really clean the average block pretty well. Shit costs like 10 bux a gallon so forget it. Looks to me like you got a great economical proceedure going there. So i think what maybe hurting you a little is washing the block after you remove it from the acid, getting raw iron with acid residue wet kick starts the rust process. Try spraying it with the alkaline sodium hydroxide soap stuff, it will neutralize the acid, because its highly alkaline. Th hen pressure wash with the sodium hydroxide. I think you will see much less rust
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Post by sc397 on Jun 22, 2020 7:40:44 GMT -8
It would be nice to try that but I am trying to limit the steps and keep it as simple as possible. The machinist will hot tank it again when he is done with it and his washer solution has a rust inhibitor in it. Prolly the same stuff that you use.
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