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Post by sc397 on Dec 2, 2021 13:22:33 GMT -8
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Post by 69Rebel on Dec 2, 2021 21:54:07 GMT -8
Are you bracket racing with this, Rick? If not, you can buy a TKX for $2850 or so. Automatic transmissions suck every little bit of fun out of a hot rod.
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Post by sc397 on Dec 3, 2021 11:11:26 GMT -8
The whole point of this thread is to figure out out to make the A500 work for a street/strip application. This has nothing to do with a stick shift trans. It was sort of intended for our buddy Russ who drives his 360 Hornet to and from the strip to drag race it. I personally don't think that it is a better transmission than the AW4 but I think it is cheaper to hop up than the AW4. We will soon find out. I am going to figure out how to make the one I bought work for me first then worry about a second one for Russ later on.
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Post by 69Rebel on Dec 3, 2021 13:51:07 GMT -8
Ahhh...I see.
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Post by landbarge on Dec 3, 2021 14:12:30 GMT -8
If you ever want to check on building the AW trans, Level 10 transmission is a good one. Located in NJ.
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Post by spud on Dec 4, 2021 10:36:29 GMT -8
Im still into in this topic.
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Post by sc397 on Dec 21, 2021 9:36:48 GMT -8
Well my A500 is done but not quite the way I wanted it. The trans is capable of 600 hp and all of that but the Torque Converter guy could only give me a 2500 stall converter. Shame on me for not asking the right questions and doing more homework. Randy built the trans with the existing 27 spline input shaft which means that I am limited in Torque Converter options as I find out today. So now I am calling to find out if any other company can make a 4000 stall for the 27 spline. If they can't, we need to find out if we can swap out the 27 spline input shaft for the early 26 spline input shaft. (Seems to me that I had asked Randy to do this in the first place) Oh well, still learning but getting there.
And to top it off... I just found Ken Parkman's write up on the A-500. This are words from Mr. Parkman: The only A500 type transmission that bolts to an AMC engine is the 42RE installed in Jeep Grand Cherokee’s with 4.0 litre 6 cylinder AMC engines from 1993 on. The housing bolt pattern and starter installation is identical. In 96 Chrysler changed to a symmetric converter bolt pattern, 95 and prior used 1 offset bolt and that is what AMC used. Chyrsler made running changes on these things to improve them, and there was a major upgrade to oil supply in the 93-94 area. So the best transmission to start with is a 95. I can confirm it bolts perfectly to a stock AMC engine, the 11” LU converter bolts to the inner pattern on a stock flexplate, the engine pattern is right, the motor plate and cover is right, and the starter is perfect. Even though the transmission is electronic the case casting still has all the passages for the mechanical governor. I can confirm 95 has the passages, and I understand newer cases also. I do not know if at some point Chrysler simplified the case and deleted the passages. Rwd versions of the 42RE were made, but they are rare, and it does not matter anyhow as they are electronic control and there is no mechanical governor. Either a Rwd or a 4wd version will work for conversion to AMC hydraulic control, and you need a RH transmission OD section for to get the hydraulic governor regardless. In 96 the rest of the Chrysler transmissions went electronic; Jeep was first in 93 as they needed to get rid of the mechanical governor to shorten the transmission for the Grand Cherokee installation. So you want a 95 Dodge Durango 42RH to get the OD section with the mechanical governor, the hydraulic valve body, and the OD piston support with the provision for the governor lines. So the simplest way is get a 42RH from a 95 2wd Dodge Durango and the front case and converter from a 95 Jeep GC with a 4.0. The only modification required is making a small sleeve to space the smaller 3 pin connector from the RH into the larger hole in the RE case (those have 9 pins) for the OD and LU activation. The rest is a total bolt together. It is not a particularly strong or performance combination, but should be fine for a mild V8 application. Conventional Chrysler transmission upgrades apply if you want improved strength or performance, and there are significant factory upgrades that are available, cheap and easy. Converter: The Chrysler converter is inherently flawed in that it is only 5.28” long and really too short for decent performance when you add a lockup clutch; another reason to get rid of the lock-up. The AMC converter is different from Mopar in that it does not have a ring gear. There is very limited aftermarket support for Mopar lock-up converters and what is easily available is the stock 11” with a few tweaks. I do not consider that a performance piece and would not use that in any application. Previous experience has taught me how important a converter is for going fast. A few suppliers make good Mopar converters using the higher technology 245mm core from a GM FWD application, but they did not even want to discuss AMC. Note that this core is ‘longer’ than a mopar’s converter, and a very tight fit which means in some cases they use a block spacer to get a little more length. You have to be very careful when assembling to ensure it does not bind with something, and the suppliers often include bolts with special reduced thickness heads to get the last fraction of an inch clearance. After a lot of research I purchased a converter from Martin Saine of Saine Performance. He was excellent to work with and made me one based on the 245 mm (9 ½”) GM core with a larger diameter 11” lock-up clutch in an AMC standard without a ring gear. As the AMC uses 1/2“ flexplate to cranks bolt the machined mopar one’s he supplied would not fit, so I ground down the heads of stock bolts as the converter was hitting them. The ARP Pontiac flexplate bolts fit AMC and might work, but you would have to mock it up to check for clearance. As well this is a proper performance converter and uses 7/16” flexplate to converter bolts; so the flexplate must be drilled to match. The stock 5/16” bolts are not good enough for performance use; learned that one a long time ago.
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Post by 1982AmcConcord on Dec 21, 2021 15:35:19 GMT -8
I'm really glad you are working on this Rick. I'll probably need one attached to the next 360 engine! 🤘🤘🤘
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Post by sc397 on Jan 15, 2022 10:03:53 GMT -8
I got the transmission back from the builder last week. He has pictures of it going together but hasn't sent them to me yet. Interesting that the A500 weighs almost twice as much as the 998. I weighed each transmission without the torque converter. 998 = 75# A500 = 146# I also found out that I can have a non lock-up converter made for the A500 that will hold up to 650 HP. Somehow they can plug off the lock-up feature. IMG_5711 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by sc397 on Oct 20, 2022 4:24:52 GMT -8
Well we decided to install the AMCA500 in to NEJoe's Spirit and it could have not gone better. Transmission Tunnel - No cutting whatsoever! Flex Plate - We used the original 360 904/727 Flex Plate and all I had to do was elongate one Torque Converter mounting hole to line up with the A500 Torque Converter. Trans Cross Member - The original 904 cross member worked perfect, Like it was made for it. IMG_6040 by Rick Jones, on Flickr IMG_6039 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Transmission Mount - I used the shortest one for a 904 that I had and widened it to match up with the A500 mounting holes. The fore-aft location is perfect. IMG_6034 by Rick Jones, on Flickr Drive Shaft - We will use the Jeep drive shaft and get it shortened.
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Post by sc397 on Dec 1, 2022 13:20:13 GMT -8
We have actually got a second A500 going to RamblingRebel's Rebel Machine behind a 450 hp 401. The cost for his transmission without the expensive valve body that I have was $1,975.00 and he provided a core.
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Post by ramblingrebel on Dec 4, 2022 13:49:52 GMT -8
yea, but mines more "stealthy", its painted semi-gloss black - just trying to figure out the other components. I was out in my mess of a garage last night trying to remember where i left off. my Machine currently has a 998 in it that was put in just for test fitting (and maybe eventually test running with), but times change, and my intentions changed. I have the original torque convertor that came with my 1998 jeep grand cherokee. I'm wondering if i should just run it, or, i spoke with a torque converter shop about building one. It was cheap enough, $300 i think. If my memory can be relied on, and it usually can't, i think he said he didn't think he could get the stall speed above 3000rpm (i forget the reason), and since this is going to be mainly a street car which may or may not ever see a drag race, i'm not o sure the factory one isn't good enough for what i want. If i'm reading your post right, you used your existing 904/727 flex plate, which answered on of my outstanding questions i wasn't clear on. and i'm hoping, praying, begging that if a spirits trans crossmember can work, my machines will. Tis is on my storage hoist and i'm hoping i get my j10 running this month and i can redirect my attention to getting this installed in the machine - and if wishes were horses, beggars would ride
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Post by spud on Dec 4, 2022 17:06:37 GMT -8
How long is the overdrive transmission?
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Post by sc397 on Dec 4, 2022 18:38:41 GMT -8
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Post by ramblingrebel on Dec 20, 2023 9:37:10 GMT -8
so, it only takes me 18months to get to a project, so here i am. The TF998 and 8" ati is out of my rebel machine. After speaking with Rick at length the other night, trying to shake his memory (and mine) regarding convertors and lock-ups. We figured it was best for me to track down the transmission fellow and have him explain it to me again. This time with me taking notes. So i called Randy in michigan last night and had a good chat, he's seems like a great guy, super friendly (and patient) and here is what he explained to me it really boiled down to 3 options 1 – wire a switch on the dash I flip when on highway to put convertor into lockup Centre post sees “ignition on” power Two outer posts see ground when switch is activated 2 – buy one of these (with the optional adjustable switches) transmissioncenter.net/shop/patc-727-to-518-46rh-conversion-kit-click-here-for-727-to-46rh-swap-wiring-diagram/3 – or have a convertor built that will allow a non-lockup convertor run in a lockup convertor transmission not an option for what i want I’m going with option 1 initially But if I get annoyed I’ll install option 2 (so chances are good i'll have option 2 on my car a year from now) He thinks the stock convertor is too low a stall for my setup Thinks I should go with the max my convertor guy said he could do (which was around 3000rpm) says my convertor guy should be able to tweak my existing convertor for that or just have a new one built to my specs I guess I’m heading to New Hamburg....i'll do it when its not so "peopley" out there jkconverters.com/
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