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Post by spud on Oct 15, 2023 12:16:59 GMT -8
It ought to cool ok with the bypass line. It ought to cool with a stock water pump. What i’m getting at, is pressure. If you get better cooling by increasing the pressure ( across the rad), your rad might be restrictive. If it is restrictive, you get a better cooling situation by increasing pressure in top, you will likely see LESS pressure in the bottom outlet to water pump inlet area. Only way you know is a compound gauge tapped into the water pump inlet and a low pressure gauge tapped into the thermostat housing outlet or intake manifold water crossover. Theses three locations will tell you a lot. Is the pump making good pressure? Is it drawing too hard and pushing to hard on a restrictive rad or thermostat? Removing the bypass hose is a quick way to increase pressure at the top tank and force more hot water through the rad. Another valid info gathering tool is a thermister, temp sensor, or thermal infrared heat gun. If you use these tools to gather honest info that you can anylize and compare, you can fix your overheating. Just changing parts WILL fix it eventually. If you want to make it simple pack a bigger rad in there and the biggest full time fan that will fit the shroud. I garantee if its big enough, and has enough airflow , and something like 10 psi in the thermostat housing, your cooling problems will go away.More air &more water through your existing rad will help. But more air and more water through the biggest rad with the most rows will help a lot more. I also recommend an accurate gauge and NOT a factory jeep guessometer. The whole idea is if you know your pressures and delta P across the rad, you actually have something to go on. If you temp between the top tank and bottom tank has only about 5-7 degrees difference your rad is perfectly good. If it has a bigger difference and doesnt overheat your ok. If it has a bigger difference like 15 -25 degrees and its overheating, you rad is restrictive. Your better off knowing what its doing than guessing is the point. Chances are the engine is not the problem if you spark plugs look ok and your not bubbling compression out. The pressure gauge will tell you if you have compression because it will rise quick and overpressure the cap. Pressure gauges and temp gauges will accurately identify the operating conditions. I used to do this at work. I work on diesel trucks. I still check pump pressure first. If its good, isuall 10-15 psi, I put new thermostats in it, fill it with fresh water and flushing agent, and run the hell out of it, monitoring system pressure, inlet and outlet temps on rad. If the pressure exceeds cap quickliy, its got compression it it and its time to check the head or egr and other things, if thats good it turns and burns to full temps, if they exceed more than 5-7 degrees hotter at top than bottom, poof it gets the radiator cleaned or replaced. This will fix any overheating truck every time. Springtime brings em in for the old cooling system checkup. Most of the time its the RAD. If we change it, it always gets the BIGGEST rad available. I have a 100 perecent success rate on fixing overheating trucks.
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Post by javtwotone on Oct 26, 2023 5:04:01 GMT -8
Fantastic info Spud, and I certainly have the resources to put that together. But, the weather has started to turn here and by the time I get the engine back from Jones, it will be too cold to really tell me anything... So the throw money at it with fancy parts method is where we're at.
I moved the trans cooler forward as much as I could and added a fancy higher air flow A/C condenser. I believe SC397 is going to use a fancier water pump as well. I'm going to flush out the aluminum rad to look for any crap in it, but it only has 3K miles on it and is huge. The electric fan with shroud moves a shitload of air. I believe part of the guys issues stem from how it ran when it got a little warm, and he had unknowingly brought that on himself. his cone air filter was right above the exhaust manifold an was pumping nice hot air in the motor, causing it to pull timing and well, pumping hot air in doesn't help anything anyway. The cold air kit was already helping.
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Post by spud on Oct 26, 2023 6:41:03 GMT -8
Yes many times a lot of small details are what it takes opposed to the “ magic bullet” fix. I worked on a truck recently and got in some trouble. It was a big 379 peterbuilt. ( a ton of grille area) the owner put this geeky chrome grill and bugscreen on it and made it overheat. I took the grill off and drove it. It ran nice and cool. I told the boss it was the grill. And then the yelling started. Lol. Truckers. Some of them are real dicks.
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Post by Captain Awesome on Nov 29, 2023 16:04:46 GMT -8
Saw your Post on gAyMC. I always lol at those cones. At Nelson a young guy had and Evo he claimed at 550WHP. My Ki'ds "Kia" prolly has less than half of that. So my kid waited for him to catch up after turn 13, got beside him, then walked him hard. My kid then said, Gee, I must have 650 WHP. lol anywho, the Evo dude had one of those cones around the back of the motor sucking the hottest air under there. I can only imagine how much power that was costing him. My kid was smart enough to go Cold Ram Air. Hence eating built to the Max Evos for lunch.
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Post by 69Rebel on Nov 29, 2023 17:41:29 GMT -8
Seems like every factory EFI that I've ever seen has it's intake opening outside of the engine compartment.
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Post by Captain Awesome on Nov 29, 2023 18:09:11 GMT -8
Yeah, and people crap that up with one of those Cones "unboxed" under the hood..... On the kids, the air inlet was up behind the header panel and pointing down at the rad support. The aftermarket unit brings in forward, down, then forward facing the grill.
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Post by spud on Nov 29, 2023 18:22:52 GMT -8
Thats whats great about computer controls. They keep a close eye on fuel correction factors. Thats why they run like ass a lot of the time. They run shitty because they are DOING WHAT THEY WERE DESIGNED TO DO. Just make an exhaust leak upstream of the oxegen sensor, and taste the rainbow of magical electronic gayness.😄 as your air fuel ratio goes into deep space. Or get a vacuum leak and your MAP readings go into the cave of the unknown. 🤣
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Post by javtwotone on Nov 30, 2023 4:13:25 GMT -8
Yep, until I realized what was going on with the inlet temp, I played hell screwing around with adjustments. It would run better at first of course (before it got hot) then worse by the time I got it back home. The cone filter he used actually had an extra opening at the end of it. Same size as an old piece of exhaust hose I had. I jammed it in there, and routed it next to the battery where the factory hose went. Dropped the temp 30 degrees going down the road, then back to 180+ degrees as soon as you stopped for more than a minute.
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Post by spud on Nov 30, 2023 4:25:13 GMT -8
The best thing i have found for troubleshooting electronic fuel control is a laptop, or display, that tells you what the control input data is. It will lead you to the problem most of the time.
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