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Post by 69Rebel on Nov 8, 2023 11:17:40 GMT -8
LOL, dreamer. 1/8th? 10 flat.
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Post by Captain Awesome on Nov 9, 2023 8:40:33 GMT -8
details, header? 4 bbl? efi? 9.80 first pass and down from there.
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Post by 69Rebel on Nov 9, 2023 10:10:39 GMT -8
It will really pick up after you get the turbo and EFI installed.
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Post by spud on Nov 9, 2023 10:38:50 GMT -8
Its a stock 99 4.0, it has a jba shorty header but its no advantage. Most of em had factory headers. It has a 81-88 258 2 bbl intake manifold with a 32/36 mm weber, i also had to run a distributer. So i figure its probably close to stock power. Maybe a little more or probably less. I have a 3.27 low five speed and 3.15 gear with 25 inch tires. Dunno what it weighs. Its an honest used junk motor with pieces from my old 232 and other stuff i had on hand.
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Post by javtwotone on Nov 10, 2023 4:41:41 GMT -8
Wish we could line Roadkill up with Booger, I think that would be interesting. At least through first gear... Booger sounds meaner than it really is.
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Post by spud on Nov 10, 2023 8:03:01 GMT -8
If we all make the first annual rebs roundup in ark city kansas , we can do that. I’m not scared of losing😁
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Post by javtwotone on Nov 10, 2023 10:40:28 GMT -8
I was figuring you'd win. Even if the 304 made more power, I have a hard time being gentle while racing. I would break the T-5 or AMC 15..
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Post by spud on Nov 10, 2023 13:06:49 GMT -8
I dunno bud. It sounds to me like a pretty fair match. Since we are stickshifting , anything could happen. But win or lose, a good close match of gear banging is super fun.
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Post by spud on Dec 4, 2023 6:18:58 GMT -8
Since its become cooler i have noticed the javelin has become a bit drafty. Basically since it has no interior. This weekend i took what was left of the door panels out. They had been hacked for speakers and had two big holes on both door panels. I bought some 4x8 sheets of plastic from summit. I ground off all the staples that held the fiberboard panel to the steel stamped top, and disected the panels so the fiberboard was intact, and used the old fiberboard for a patern, and traced out new panels from black 1/8 th inch plastic sheet. I cut the new plastic panels out and attatched them to the stamped steel tops with small stainless nuts and bolts. I left the window fuzzez on the steel panel parts, and carefully trimmed the vinyl cover from where it was stapled on with the fuzz. Then i put them on the door. The steel parts were once galvanized. They have some rust on them from weather. I think if i paint them they would look ok. I dunno if i have the interest yet to finish the panels with a vinyl or cloth covering. They look ok as they are i guess. Kinda industrial maybe. Better than before and a lot less drafty. I think i will do the rear next. I think if i painted the steel tops the whole affair might look more decent. Anyways it was kind of fun making something from my trashed out rotted old door panels. And a helluva lot cheaper than new ones.
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Post by spud on Dec 4, 2023 8:21:22 GMT -8
I weighed them against a full panel. They are almost three pounds. A stock panel is around 7. I think if i modify the rears i will loose about ten pounds or so😁
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Post by 69Rebel on Dec 4, 2023 9:00:22 GMT -8
Here are the door panels I made for my Jeeptruck a couple of years ago. They're a little grubby since I've been driving it around quite a bit. I couldn't even use the old ones for a pattern as they were too tattered. The backer is 1/4" plywood flooring underlayment with a layer of thin poly quilt batting and seat vinyl from Jo-Ann.
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Post by spud on Dec 4, 2023 10:32:42 GMT -8
Wow that looks pretty good reb. Maybe i could spend a little more time and money on mine.
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Post by 69Rebel on Dec 4, 2023 10:46:08 GMT -8
It wasn't really all that expensive. Well under $100 for the pair.
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Post by Captain Awesome on Dec 4, 2023 14:03:08 GMT -8
Those look great, Rebbie.
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Post by javtwotone on Jan 24, 2024 6:01:53 GMT -8
I finished up the tkx transmission install. I didnt think any of the currently available flywheels for the 4.0 were worth wasting money on , so i reused a 258 flywheel. I used a new hays 10.5 inch diaphram clutch, it was pretty cheap, pn 09-3101, designated “ hays street 450 clutch, amc,10.5 inch 26 spline”… it was a “ conversion clutch kit” that fit the tkx input. The pressure plate fit the larger bolt circle on the iron amc flywheel. I bought an advance adapters amc to gm manual trans bellhousing kit, it was super quality heavy duty stuff, and came with the correct pilot bushing and a super nice release bearing, and hd gm release lever, hardware, rubber boot, not cheap but really worth the money. The housing also accepts 4.0 flywheel sensor, if that is needed. It dialed in within .003 concentrically and was perfect radially. I used a urethane gm mount on a stock javelin crossmember, only mod was drill two 7/16ths holes for the gm mount, engine angle was perfect, easy enough. So I didnt have much for clutch linkage, so i ended up slightly modding a hornet z bar and making the bushings and bracket for it, i guess i traded off my javelin clutch pedal setup because i hunted high and low but couldnt find it, so i used a set from a hornet. They seem a bit longer but work well irregardless of differences. The clutch pedal action and feel are really good. As usual i used a late model mopar master cylinder and willwood adjustable proportioning valve. I had a hurst shifter handle that fit the tkx, its straight, about 7” long. It could be a little swept back , but not a big issue. Since this car had an otto trans, it had a nice big hole in the tunnel, i reversed the tremec shifter to the rear option by removing the shift housing and reversing it, it ended up centrally located in the existing hole. I made up an aluminum cover for the giant amc automatic floor shifter housing hole. I used a 1350 joint slipyoke, since i had it, with a 1350/1310 hybrid joint, to adapt the stock diveshaft, which fit pretty well. The trans has a sensor for an electronic speedo, and i have a autometer electronic speedo somewhere, i might go with that i dunno yet. Depends on if i can find a cable laying around that will work (that i dont have to buy). So the ratios on this trans( the wide ration gm tkx) are 3.27 low, 1.98 2nd, 1.34 third, 1.00 4th, and .72 fifth. I have a 1969 3.15 twin grip rear, and that equates to a 10.3 low, 6.23 2nd, 4.22 third, 3.15 drive, and a 2.268 overdrive. In roadkill terms “ its pretty good”. Definitly not junk, it should be reliable, Overkill for a junkyard 4.0 true enough. But ya never know. What was once roadkill sometime becomes a lot better. So thats it. The tkx is a fully bolt in proposition (given you have the right parts) and for the 2800 bux i spent on it, the value is all there, in as much as you get a killer low gear, great ratio spacing, 600 ft lbs capability, a nice top gear for hiway use, quiet, super easy speed shift synchros, all in all a easy fit no hack package. A brand new transmission the likes of which has never existed for your amc. Is it a waste of money for roadkill? Hell no! And the tkx comes in two close ratio versions, with different od ratios…, and if your inclined, Advanced adapters makes a ford trans kit, which allows bolting in one of four choices for a ford version tkx. So its rainbows and unicorns, any tkx will go right in any amc. Hey Spud, I'm guessing you have the clutch fork with two holes in it and the "V" grooves. Did you buy the wedge (716139) they offer to align the push rod to the hole? I'm not sure I like the metal on metal set up that creates.
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