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Post by landbarge on Mar 26, 2023 17:20:13 GMT -8
Interesting on cyl 1&2 damage. Any time I've seen that on inlines it was from a failed water pump and the angle the engine sits on.
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Post by spud on Mar 26, 2023 17:23:52 GMT -8
I figured the back cylinders would be the first to burn up. They looked ok. Maybe is was a lean confition , i dunno. The 4.0s are getting old now and finding a good running engine isnt as easy as it once was.
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Post by spud on Apr 11, 2023 9:44:34 GMT -8
I finished up the tkx transmission install. I didnt think any of the currently available flywheels for the 4.0 were worth wasting money on , so i reused a 258 flywheel. I used a new hays 10.5 inch diaphram clutch, it was pretty cheap, pn 09-3101, designated “ hays street 450 clutch, amc,10.5 inch 26 spline”… it was a “ conversion clutch kit” that fit the tkx input. The pressure plate fit the larger bolt circle on the iron amc flywheel. I bought an advance adapters amc to gm manual trans bellhousing kit, it was super quality heavy duty stuff, and came with the correct pilot bushing and a super nice release bearing, and hd gm release lever, hardware, rubber boot, not cheap but really worth the money. The housing also accepts 4.0 flywheel sensor, if that is needed. It dialed in within .003 concentrically and was perfect radially. I used a urethane gm mount on a stock javelin crossmember, only mod was drill two 7/16ths holes for the gm mount, engine angle was perfect, easy enough. So I didnt have much for clutch linkage, so i ended up slightly modding a hornet z bar and making the bushings and bracket for it, i guess i traded off my javelin clutch pedal setup because i hunted high and low but couldnt find it, so i used a set from a hornet. They seem a bit longer but work well irregardless of differences. The clutch pedal action and feel are really good. As usual i used a late model mopar master cylinder and willwood adjustable proportioning valve. I had a hurst shifter handle that fit the tkx, its straight, about 7” long. It could be a little swept back , but not a big issue. Since this car had an otto trans, it had a nice big hole in the tunnel, i reversed the tremec shifter to the rear option by removing the shift housing and reversing it, it ended up centrally located in the existing hole. I made up an aluminum cover for the giant amc automatic floor shifter housing hole. I used a 1350 joint slipyoke, since i had it, with a 1350/1310 hybrid joint, to adapt the stock diveshaft, which fit pretty well. The trans has a sensor for an electronic speedo, and i have a autometer electronic speedo somewhere, i might go with that i dunno yet. Depends on if i can find a cable laying around that will work (that i dont have to buy). So the ratios on this trans( the wide ration gm tkx) are 3.27 low, 1.98 2nd, 1.34 third, 1.00 4th, and .72 fifth. I have a 1969 3.15 twin grip rear, and that equates to a 10.3 low, 6.23 2nd, 4.22 third, 3.15 drive, and a 2.268 overdrive. In roadkill terms “ its pretty good”. Definitly not junk, it should be reliable, Overkill for a junkyard 4.0 true enough. But ya never know. What was once roadkill sometime becomes a lot better. So thats it. The tkx is a fully bolt in proposition (given you have the right parts) and for the 2800 bux i spent on it, the value is all there, in as much as you get a killer low gear, great ratio spacing, 600 ft lbs capability, a nice top gear for hiway use, quiet, super easy speed shift synchros, all in all a easy fit no hack package. A brand new transmission the likes of which has never existed for your amc. Is it a waste of money for roadkill? Hell no! And the tkx comes in two close ratio versions, with different od ratios…, and if your inclined, Advanced adapters makes a ford trans kit, which allows bolting in one of four choices for a ford version tkx. So its rainbows and unicorns, any tkx will go right in any amc.
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Post by javtwotone on Apr 12, 2023 3:08:58 GMT -8
Very cool! My Rambler ended up with the same 10.3 first gear, and it's perfect for the car. I think you will like it as well.
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Post by spud on Apr 12, 2023 6:16:21 GMT -8
The tkx ratio wise is a lot like a good t-5, only stronger than i really need. I almost bought a new t-5, but the tkx was not a bunch more, so i went with it. The t-5 is still a very good option, given the boneyards can supply used parts. Its a good trans for a driver and a high miler. The tkx is designed and built for easy fit in musclecar era machines, with lots of upgrades over the old trans. My main reason for the tkx choice was i will race this car, and it will likely get more power. I never leave anything together for long. The t-5 does make the better choice for a less expensive reliable daily driver, it has plenty of strength for that and the ratios couldnt be better. Its a very sensible choice and a great upgrade for any old car. I am a dragstrip rat, and i have seen plenty of t-5 carnage at the track. Kids just demolish those poor things. They just dont work long in that situation , without carefull tactfull clutching and shifting, they just flippin bust. In respect for the t-5, just about any oem manual trans will die eventually in a drag machine, without care.
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Post by 69Rebel on Apr 30, 2023 8:54:26 GMT -8
Hey spud, can I trouble you to measure the diameter of the yoke you have for the TKX? The one I got from Scummit is toight. Way toight.
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Post by spud on Apr 30, 2023 12:51:51 GMT -8
The od of the splined tube is same as a c-6. Because the yoke IS for a c-6. I dunno what all it fits. I got mine frome the boneyard i think.
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Post by 69Rebel on Apr 30, 2023 14:56:22 GMT -8
Yeah, a C-6 yoke is what I thought I ordered from Scummit. It fits the splines, but is tight in the bushing. Trying to figger out if I need to get a different one, or pull the extension housing and open up the bushing.
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Post by spud on Apr 30, 2023 20:15:00 GMT -8
Mine measures approx 1.685
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Post by spud on May 6, 2023 6:34:20 GMT -8
Did you figure out your yoke frikkis rebby? I found a better shift handle. Its a hurst 5389015. Some guy bought it for his moosetang and didnt like it. It fits the tkx javelin setup perfectly. I got it for 50$. I think thats like half price. The price for this junk keeps going up, i guess i could be dumping it into other stuff. But its still fun.
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Post by 69Rebel on May 6, 2023 7:44:19 GMT -8
I've been too busy to mess with it. I need to get it at least able to make it to the mailbox, as that is where the auto shipper's trailer will be.
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Post by 69Rebel on May 17, 2023 16:14:48 GMT -8
Mine measures the same as yours. (lol) There must be a burr on the bushing or something.
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Post by spud on May 17, 2023 16:22:03 GMT -8
They come with a big black rubber plug in the rear seal. Its kind of a pain in the ass to get out. I wonder if someone fucked that operation up, maybe leaving a big part of the rubber plug in or gouging the bushing? I know its hard to see in there… taking off the tailhousing might be possible. I havent really thought about taking a tkx apart, i dont think it looks really complex. You bought it used? How far will the yoke go in? Does it just bind up and stop? Could the splines be twisted?
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Post by landbarge on May 17, 2023 16:55:55 GMT -8
Mine had the rubber plug shoved all the way in because the shoved the red plastic cap plug right in after it
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Post by 69Rebel on May 17, 2023 20:16:55 GMT -8
The splines aren't twisted. It just goes in a little, then it just get really tight. It had that rubber plug in it when I got it. I'll have to pull the trans back out, and pull the shift tower so I can pull the extension housing. I'm heading for Kansas next week, so I probably won't touch it for a month.
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