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Post by landbarge on Nov 12, 2022 15:02:46 GMT -8
Brackets were used on non power only.II borrowed them from a few concord's back when you still found them in scrap yards. I needed them when I converted an 80 eagle wagon to non-power
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Post by spud on Nov 13, 2022 7:32:48 GMT -8
I pulled all the under hood wiring and brake lines out to get ready to paint the engine bay. Now the question is do I paint it the color that I want it to be, or just shoot it with the golden slime and call it a day. In the theme of Spud's Road Kill Javelin I am inclined to slime it and call it a day. Fkn Bristow is actually going to sell a front valance to me which is a lucky find for me. Fitted up the new gas tank which is 1 1/2" taller than the original one but I am going to go with it.. I will just shoot it black so it is not so in your face. Parts - Ordered a new windshield at $175. plus tax. Ordered new rotors but I can't find calipers anywhere and no one has a brake booster either. Pulled a set of main caps out of a 304 and Chuck is able to make those work and was honing them to size yesterday. IMG_6155 by Rick Jones, on Flickr . Other than that big dent that those mean car haters put in the passenger quarter that car is plenty good for a 1500 grit massage and then a buff job for a decent roadkill resto. Personally the golden lime is a favorite. I also think the dent in the quarter could be carefully pushed out to a much less cringey condition. You might even try a sos pad resto on the engine compartment. It might be good enough to convince you painting over original amc finish isnt needed. I think roadkill musclecars are gonna be the new cool trend. Resto muscle costs far too much and is not user freindly. Roadkill cars are so much more inline with their original intent and porpose and useage. They are what they are and always were. A good original-ish sc360 is a great road machine and plenty exciting track machine and should be a great stock muscle level drag machine. From the pictures that car would be really nice roadkill or even a really worthwhile survivor. Personally i value an original survivor more than a resto. Its a much stronger nostalgic connection to the past. And again its all my opinion, but the golden lime metallic is a 100 point keeper color. Its a premier 1970 color, its punk as hell, its metallic, i’m absolutely sick for mettalics, particularly lime hues, and its a reject color everyone changes. So i realize i’m a weirdo, irregardless i think thats “the” color that sc “is” and always will be, even if you try to hide it. I’m biased on the color truly, and jealous too, because my roadkill javelin was golden lime metallic, but its mostly gone and covered in black paint. And i just dont think i have enough motivation to bring that back, and if i try its just gonna be a better than factory resto, which will ruin the whole deal. I use to think amc did crappy paint jobs, and some of them did suck pretty much, but that was how they were, and it was really some of the greatness of amc.
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Post by sc397 on Nov 13, 2022 14:37:29 GMT -8
I agree with you Spud, at least I think unrestored muscle cars with the battle scars are cool. My Machine will get the same treatment. I popped the big dent out the other day and it looks a lot better. I have all ready started scrubbing some of the flat black off of the cowell and where the fenders attach. The problem is the factory only blew one coat on so I am rubbing through. Oh well, we will see how it looks after I get all of the black off. In the mean time, I got a nice chunk of floor from a donor Hornet to patch up where they hacked it. I know that they weren't stock but I also picked up a pair of bucket seats from that Hornet AMX that I dug out of the barn a year ago.
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Post by landbarge on Nov 13, 2022 16:14:49 GMT -8
Rick, do you mean like the unrestored rough MACHINE we saw pull in Kenosha? Maybe about 10am when we were bs'ing on your tailgate? Like an AMC version of "Christine".
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Post by spud on Nov 13, 2022 16:20:43 GMT -8
Its true the factory paint in the engine compartment and door jamb areas etc. is very thin. So theres not a lot of hope in the case where it has been painted over. I guess you gotta take roadkill pretty much as it is. Elsewise it starts becomming dreaded resto.
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Post by sc397 on Nov 13, 2022 17:47:05 GMT -8
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Post by landbarge on Nov 13, 2022 17:55:48 GMT -8
Car was about 98% surface rust
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acm
Cool Froods
Posts: 310
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Post by acm on Nov 13, 2022 18:45:30 GMT -8
Car was about 98% surface rust That makes me feel better, mines only about 70% surface rust!
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Post by landbarge on Nov 14, 2022 5:34:08 GMT -8
Id drive yours in a heartbeat. Fix all the essentials and roll down the road with a grin.
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Nov 18, 2022 13:51:36 GMT -8
On page 5, where the crossmember was modified with the fixture to use regular brackets, was there any indication as to why AMC didn't do it that way to begin with? Any chance having one welded up and shipped to WV?
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Post by sc397 on Nov 27, 2022 12:34:05 GMT -8
I used the original cross member and brackets. When I build one from a 6cyl I use the big car motor mounts because you can find them anywhere.
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Post by sc397 on Apr 14, 2023 17:29:15 GMT -8
NEJoe restored the shifter for the Pure Stock SC360 for me. Nice! IMG_6879 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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Post by spud on Apr 14, 2023 19:20:33 GMT -8
In my opinion the hurst competition plus is some of the most primal and iconic high performance hardware ever available on an amc.
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Post by PHAT69AMX on Apr 14, 2023 23:36:54 GMT -8
Aren't one piece Levers and adjustable Rods better? Rather than adjustable Levers and one piece Rods?
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Post by spud on Apr 15, 2023 6:35:28 GMT -8
Hell no. The adjstable levers were superior. Solid rods didnt have the looseness that threaded rods had. They were actually easier and quicker to adjust and once done stayed adjusted forever. The amc competition plus setup was pretty good, the things that would fail were the inferior cast aluminum mount adapter, which kinda sucked, and the slip in shifter handle was convenient, but sloppy. I eliminated that by using a later bolt together component in the shifter assembly and drilled my handle to fit it, which was a great improvement and eliminated the loose handle phenomenon. I also made a shifter mount adapter from 1/2” steel plate to fix the cast aluminum adapter, which was old and worn out. I have a pretty interesting collection of hurst components, indy competition plus, supershifter, vertigates, even a richmond five speed shifter. I even have a late bolt on amc specific competition plus handle i ordered from hurst, that the bend leaned towards the passenger. ( they made a mistake when they manufactured it) I’m pretty much in love with hurst stuff. I customized the amc specific setup with parts from a supershifter 3 that had adjustable shift stops , a reverse lockout t handle and a bolt in handle. I loved the round rod slip in handles. They were finely made and had great chroming. The later flat handles were not elegant like the early round ones.
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