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Oil
Apr 28, 2015 11:51:10 GMT -8
Post by Captain Awesome on Apr 28, 2015 11:51:10 GMT -8
If one of the Fastest AMCs in the world runs $12 a jug Rotella, I think I'd feel a bit silly spending the $$$ to put Royal Slurple in the ol' lawn chair hauler. But then again, that's just me.
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Oil
Apr 28, 2015 12:44:37 GMT -8
Post by sc397 on Apr 28, 2015 12:44:37 GMT -8
Yea, Stickshifter runs his engine a whole 7 seconds plus the burn out... I bet he goes a whole year before he changes it. I would guess that he must have at least 30 or 40 miles between oil changes. : ))
I have been burned twice when they took the zinc out and didn't tell anyone. It cost me 2 engines. They even reduced the zinc oi Rotella. Don't get me wrong, I use Rotella as well but I use the additive with it. It seems like it is almost back to using what ever your favorite brand is but don't forget the zinc kicker.. So to your point, why by Mobil 1 or some other over priced oil when the $12.00 a gallon stuff works just fine..
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Oil
Apr 28, 2015 18:10:55 GMT -8
Post by 69Rebel on Apr 28, 2015 18:10:55 GMT -8
I buy some Mobil diesel oil from an industrial place in town for like $50. I add one bottle of STP. Works OK, I guess.
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Oil
Apr 28, 2015 21:28:34 GMT -8
Post by Captain Awesome on Apr 28, 2015 21:28:34 GMT -8
I can imagine the pounding that oil takes for that 7 seconds. I know what it does in a Commercial app. At where I used to work, our change intervals for the Diesel delivery trucks were supposed to be 12,000 miles. A Sterling with a Mercedes, an International, and a smaller box truck and a flat bed both with a Duramax. They'd end up getting changed at 15,000. Since I've been gone, 4 months, no one has changed a drop of oil. They don't even pull the sticks anymore. The Mercedes would run out 1-2 qts every run, she must be down 12 qts or better and have 30,000+ on the oil and filter. lol We'd run Pennzoil 5w30 dino in the sales vehicles. 5000 interval, which actually got changed at 7000-10,000 on count of how short handed we always were. Those little HHRs went 230,000 miles before being sold. Never even changed the spark plugs in them.
On my stuff I always ran an additive. Back when I first started driving, it was Wynns friction proofing. Now it's STP. Not sure if STP has enough zinc in it or not.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 1:51:09 GMT -8
Post by lenniamc on Apr 29, 2015 1:51:09 GMT -8
I use Royal Purple ( Slurple ) like the OP calls it and I´ve been very happy with the results. Also I get my Slurple stash for free , and I´m not changing it for any other brand unless its better and of course FREE My experience with Slurple has actually been so good ( for me ) that I even decided to become a vendor for them in Iceland. But that being said there are alot of other brands of oil that are good as well. Except Motul that poor excuse for an oil hehe, I´d rather run no oil and let my AMC´s die with dignity than pour that crap in any of my engines.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 3:20:10 GMT -8
Post by stickshifter on Apr 29, 2015 3:20:10 GMT -8
I just want to know what prompts people to use the oil they are using? What were they trying to fix or prevent that lead them to their choice?
I don't worry about zinc content too much since I am not running a flat tappet cam. I have reused my bearings for three years and they still look great. I may try a race oil if someone can tell me it will do something for me that the Rotela is not doing. The only issue I see is scuffing/scratching on the thrust side of the cylinder bores. But with a 6" rod and 4.15" stroke spinning to 8K and making 1500 hp, I think it is expected. I know a friend that has a similar combo with a lot less power and using race oil that sees the same thing.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 4:34:54 GMT -8
via mobile
Post by spud on Apr 29, 2015 4:34:54 GMT -8
I have run all kinds of oil. i think I like castrol gtx the best. I dunno why. If I dont care too much about the engine I put cat deo in it cuz I can usually find some ffor free. Someone told me it was really rotella but I dont know that for sure. I dont really like pennzoil. It seems to sludge up pretty quick.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 4:40:03 GMT -8
Post by lenniamc on Apr 29, 2015 4:40:03 GMT -8
If I were you I would try some brand of race oil ( Royal Purple XPR for example ) just to see if you get more power out of the engine. and get the Gremmy into the 6´s One would think that high price race oils should be more slippery and therefor reduce the friction inside the engine. At least I personally can see improvements in fuel economy when using RP instead of cheap brand X oils ( Have not used Rotella in my cars for comparison )
But on a disel generator it made a difference to replace the Rotella to Royal Purple. We saw some better fuel efficiency and cooler oil/engine temperature as well
The Rotella is cleary lubricating the engine enough since there are no signs of ware. But engine oil has more roles than just lubricating the engine. such as cooling, cleaning ect
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 6:11:45 GMT -8
Post by stickshifter on Apr 29, 2015 6:11:45 GMT -8
The problem with a full race car is that it can take a couple passes to get the rings seated properly. Int that time synthetic oils are a big no-no. The plan is to run the Rotela for at least testing tomorrow and maybe change for the race on Friday or after the race. I don't mind spending the money if I get something out of it.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 7:17:56 GMT -8
Post by lenniamc on Apr 29, 2015 7:17:56 GMT -8
Sounds about right, did you just put new rings in it or were you doing something more with the engine ?
And Kev for the love of god post some videos on your YouTube page man, we all need alot more videos of this bad boy in action.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 8:21:59 GMT -8
Post by Captain Awesome on Apr 29, 2015 8:21:59 GMT -8
I thought 12,000 miles was too much for Rotella, but I was talking to a trucker that lives up the road, and he said he has two big trucks with over 1 million miles on em, and I think one has 2 millions miles on it and he changes it once a year, not by mileage. He buys the cheapest shit he can find. He says Rotella is for rich guys (like my ex-Boss's) and won't buy it unless it's on sale, since you're looking at 30 qts or so. Kinda makes someone's little 12 sec 360 that gets oil changes ever 500 miles pretty insignificant on oil choice.
I run Castrol GTX as well. The only thing I that lead me to that was watching the mechanical oil pressure gauge on my old 318 Fury. The car was a big rag, so anything under 3000 was sluggish as shit, with being 3800 pds and 2.76s gears. So I'd ride around in 1st and 2nd screaming her at 4000 rpm everywhere, just so it felt a little snappy. I tried all dif kinda oils. Kendall GT didn't lose as much pressure or as fast as other brands. Castrol held up 2nd best. Castrol was cheaper and easier to find, so I switched. That was my reasoning as to my choice. I never ran Rotella in it.
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Oil
Apr 29, 2015 9:08:38 GMT -8
Post by javtwotone on Apr 29, 2015 9:08:38 GMT -8
I can at least point to a couple of reasons for my choice of oils. Way back when I used to work across the street from a body/mechanic shop, I was there borrowing something when they were looking at a customer's vehicles. the customer actually had run different oils in different trucks. The Mobil 1 engine was clearly cleaner internally then the others and showed less bearing wear. I wait till the 5 qt jugs of Mobil 1 are on sale for my truck which I bought new in '95. For my regular junk, I run Valvoline. A customer where I work now was showing me bearing test results they had done using conventional oils and said they periodically ran the tests and 'Ol cheap Valvoline always performed the best.....
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Oil
Apr 30, 2015 6:58:37 GMT -8
Post by sc397 on Apr 30, 2015 6:58:37 GMT -8
Wow! Some intelegent conversations about oil.. See, it can happen!
Our buddy Dave Bies runs Amsoil in his normal AMC race engines (non-roller) with very good sucess I would say. I think The Ketchum's run Rotella in their normal AMC race engines. Although yes the oil has to be durable for Kevin's engine, it isn't set up like a production engine as far as the oiling system goes. He has his own oil system that actually feeds from the rear of the engine forward through his own manifolding and plumbing system. All 3 of these guys are more than just a casual wannabe racer.
Years ago I hated Quaker State because of a huge build up of wax in some engines and because the green jugs were ugly... I was always loyal to valvoline because the "V" looked cool on the can. I started using Rotella because of the zinc issue. For my daily drivers I use non synthectic NAPA or Valvoline which ever is on sale and change it every 3000 miles. I do add a jug of Moreys or Lucas oil stabilizer in every oil change in my truck which now has 290,000 miles on it.
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Oil
Apr 30, 2015 20:46:55 GMT -8
Post by 69Rebel on Apr 30, 2015 20:46:55 GMT -8
I forgot to mention that I run Chevron cheapie oil in all of my Jap motors. All of 'em have well over 200K miles.
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Oil
May 1, 2015 20:54:38 GMT -8
Post by amxdreamer on May 1, 2015 20:54:38 GMT -8
I run Lucas hot rod and classic oil (extra zinc) and a K&N filter in my AMX. Figure the 50 bucks for an oil change once a year isn't going to break me and it helps me sleep at night
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